I‘m obsessed. All I can think of is the lobster roll, or to be precise the “New England lobster roll, hot buttered bun, cold poached crayfish, watercress & Kewpie”. The bread roll, which comes from a Chinese bakery and is friend in butter is soft and sweet. The lobster is doused in japanese mayonnaise (which is better than American mayonnaise). Diced shallots bring bite and flavour.
At $15 it’s better than any burger and constructed well, which means that nothing slithers out, leaving an unfortunate stain on your skirt or trousers. All I’ve been thinking about is somehow securing a large plate of these lobster rolls, and scoffing the whole lot.
It’s a demonstration of the deft touch of chef Andrew McConnell (Cutler and Co, Cumulus Inc), in his latest opening, the gorgeous, light and airy Golden Fields, which replaces the dark and daggy Bar Corvina.
Everything is delicate and delicious and the wine list is shortish and perfectly formed.
The food comes mainly with an Asian spin. It’s rare to see sea urchin on a menu nowadays and served on flatbread with crisp lardo and escabeche, is a delightful mouthful or two.
Flavour is packed into six cubes of tuna, it being smoked and serviced with crisp sticks of apple. The serving is just right for two to share.
The Shredded cabbage, Moreton Bay Bugs, kampot pepper & mint is a simple but fres and delicious dish, the pepper notes rising as you crunch through it.
Finally, I was sent out a complimentary dish of shredded chicken, sesame paste, house-made cold rice noodles, chilli oil ($13.20). McConnell said he was particularly proud of this one because they had worked out how to make the noodles and he should be. It’s one of those wining combinations with the soft texture of noodle and chicken against crisp vegetables with the winning combination of the bite of chilli oil and the unami-packed savoury note of sesame.
If you are after something more meaty and larger there is plenty on offer, including an Asian variation on what has become the famous lamb shoulder for two at Cumulus Inc, instead seasoned with cumin seed and preserved lemon ($74.70). Or a braised Blackmore brisket, grilled rump cap with wasabi butter and garlic shoots.
Okay I’m gushing too much now, so I’ll stop. Golden Fields is at the top end of Fitzroy Street near Mahjong, looking out to Albert PAk. It is a welcome addition to the mixed bag of dining in St Kilda.