It’s about theatre. And Der Raum does it well. Gin – there’s a selection of all the good stuff – is chilled with liquid nitrogen. It boils in a glass jug with clouds spilling down its sides and along the bar counter.
When the ice clears from the surface, it is safe to sip. And it is a good martini. A very clean martini. It’s not one that will bitch slap you in the face – although I like those. It gives a delicate caress.
Perceptions are confounded by other drinks. The medicine bottle in the paper bag is a Jamaican black strap, a twist on a 1920s original and made with Myer’s Jamaican rum, tart pomegranate, sultanas, smooth ginger beer.
Pharmacy is a tribute to Damien Hirst. In the pill bottle is pear and roasted capsicum gin. A citrus pill (lemon sherbert?) is dropped in and sweet Italian bitters injected.
With most of the cocktails are around $20 each, it’s an expensive night. But fun.
Saturday and Friday evenings are busiest and you’ll have a long wait even if you have booked a booth.