It’s very hip. It’s dark like a nightclub with individual lamps over each table illuminating the food. Not so dark that you could get away with the kind of nefarious under table hand shuffling that was reported in the defunct Bistro Guillaume bar that previously occupied the basement space. But dark enough to make any food photography futile.
I could be anywhere in the world, but I’m in Melbourne in the basement dining room in Crown Casino insulated from the gaming floor and crowds.
The concept of Spice Temple, Neil Perry’s spin on spicy Chinese food, which avoids the Cantonese clichés and draws inspiration from the regions, equally works in Sydney. Or anywhere else that Perry plans to open one.
The spice which in my book is a little subtle in both Sydney and Melbourne. But that probably suits the international and high-end business crowd who will like the pastle-coloured cocktails, highly refined versions of Asian dishes, a decent but pricy wine list and excellent service.
We started with Fried squid with whole five spice and dark chilli paste at $26 and a half-sized bamboo prawn, also costing $26. Both were fine. There’s nothing more or less to say.
Hunan style Blue Eye
The Steamed Blue Eye fillet, Hunan style Salted red chilli and pickled green chilli was a different matter. Soft and moist, the cooking was a precision job and the presentation is stunning, half green, half red.
Our favourite dish, and one half doesn’t eat desserts, was the beautifully textural elegant Rose granita with fresh lychees and strawberries and almond milk jelly ($14). I liked the contrasts of warm and the icy crunch with the soft.
Rose granita
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