Canelés: the next big thing?

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Canelés: the new thing?

Once it was donuts for me. Then a rainbow cornucopia of macarons.
Now it’s Canelés, this particular one from Dench Bakers in North Fitzroy.
To me they have the look of a barnacle or some such other marine creature that you have to chisel off a rock.
But they are in fact gorgeous soft brioche-like confections soaked in custard and caramelized on the outside. They are a small snack but big enough for your partner to have a nibble if they have to. And they are the next big thing in New York, according to the New York Times.
Dench also doesn’t do bad coffee. But still there is a gap in the market for someone, someplace to offer top notch new age coffee and great pastries.
On one hand we have St Ali and Seven Seeds with great coffee. Then we have the likes of Dench, Noisette in Port Melbourne and baker D Chirico, my all time favourite for gorgeous mouthful-sized pastries, that don’t quite cut it in coffee.
Il Fornaio in St Kilda is trying to get there but isn’t quite there yet, despite the desserts served at night, including Philippa Sibley’s lemon tart and her deconstructed snickers bar, which although gorgeous, is starting to look long in the tooth. It would be wonderful to see some Baker D Chirico like pastries in store and some new dishes.
Watch this space for more on the next next big thing: cannoli.

Dench Bakers
109 Scotchmer St
Fitzroy North VIC 3068
(03) 9486 3554

Ed Charles is a journalist and digital consultant who spend the better part of the part two decades in Australia. He trained with IPC in London and has written for major international and national business and lifestyle titles. Establishing this blog in 2005, he was one of the first of a handful of food bloggers in Australia. He's spoken at the Melbourne Writers Festival and Emerging Writers Festival and has broadcasted regularly on food and digital media issues. He is currently writing a history of mankind told through food.