Ed Lines

ED CHARLES dishes up the latest on Melbourne’s food, wine and bars

CHEF SWAP
Bigger portions and lighter, fresher food are promised by chef Richard Hooper at veg-aquarian concept restaurant SOS (Level 3, Melbourne Central).
It’s the one hidden behind the strange entrance at the top of the escalator.
Hooper replaces Riccardo Momesso, who fell out with the restaurant’s vegetarian owner Paul Mathis over cooking style and the joint’s unused wood-fired oven. The oven will soon be baking pizzas for bar snacks.
Momesso is back in stride at Bottega, while Hooper joins SOS from the award-winning Pettavel in Geelong, which this week will be appointing a replacement.

EXTRA ENTERTAINMENT
It’s now safe to visit the cult basement Japanese restaurant Yu-u (137 Flinders Lane) after the obligatory visit of Melbourne’s most celebrated former bankrupt John Elliott.
Between popping out for fags, Elliott provided perhaps what shouldn’t be described as entertainment “for the ladies”.
Full story at http://otherrants.blogspot.com

FINE WINE
SOS’s wine man Raul Moreno appears to be having his wine and drinking it. He joins Shannon Bennett’s Vue de Monde as sommelier, where he will be pouring some of the finest wines known to humanity, while still consulting to SOS.

CLASSY COURTYARD
Serial bar-owner Vernon Chalker, the man behind the Gin Palace, Order of Melbourne and Madame Brussels, is refurbishing the Courtyard Tavern on Collins St and should be finished by July.
Chalker is pitching the pub to the crowds somewhere between Cookie and the Transport Hotel at Federation Square.
Access from Little Collins will be created and a new chef and menu will bring a bit of class to the beer-sodden joint.

Best feed
DRAGON ROOM South Melbourne
It’s a bright, almost luminous, cheery red; a proper old-fashioned sweet and sour pork with fried rice that costs only $7.50. I can’t resist its allure (despite the plastic take-away container) at Dragon Room Chinese Fast Food at the South Melbourne Market food court. Start with a large triangle of sesame prawn toast.
Read Ed Charles at www.tomatom.com

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