Perhaps it’s the different rules of society and etiquette in Japan but it is a very strange place when you need an introduction to eat at a restaurant.
I suppose London has a similar thing happening with its traditional Gentlemen’s Clubs. Then there is the more modern Milk and Honey in New York, and now London (and opening the less exclusive Match Bar in QV fairly soon once a few liquor licensing problems are overcome).
Anyway, last week I was talking to Masako Fukui from Kei’s Kitchen (you may have read about their classes on Grab Your Fork) about kaiseki and she was telling me about the culture of restaurants in Japan – and the biscuits too.
“There is a very exclusive biscuit company in Japan called Kaishindo and they even have a website but you can’t buy biscuits from them. You have to have an introduction.”
Masako has eaten some that her mother Kei, a kaiseki chef of over 20 years experience, got through a friend. On her website she says:
“This practice of turning back first timer is known as “ichigensan”, and for example, Kaishindo, a most exquisite handmade biscuit company, will only accept orders from people who have had a personal introduction into the clientele circle. This is the 10th year of my desperate search for an introduction”
Masako says that there are lots of restaurants in Japanese that would not even be considered in Australia as a restaurant. Many may be in dark dingy places that are difficult to find. “They do not have toilets. There are also a lot or restaurants that just won’t allow anybody off the street come in.”
“It’s very exclusive. Somebody who knows the restaurant has to take you there. Sometimes they serve the most exquisite food. But as a food critic or a regular punter they won’t allow in.”
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