Herald Sun: Ed Lines

ED CHARLES dishes up the latest on Melbourne’s food, wine and bars

GIGI’S REJIGGED
A veteran of institutions such as Pellegrini’s, Florentino and Brunetti’s, Venetian-born “Gigi” Cipolato has retired after more than 50 years in the business. Chef Allan Parker has taken over Gigi’s (69 Ford St, Beechworth) and refurbished the shop-front restaurant, which now roasts its own coffee. While the menu is new, it maintains Gigi’s Italian roots.

NEXT OF KIN
As the name suggests, the recently opened Kin (499-501 Lygon St, North Carlton) is a family affair, the first restaurant of Rosa and Joseph Licciardi and their four children. The focus is on seasonal organic and chemical-free produce with an Italian spin. Each day brings new specials.

RARE BLUE MOUNTAINS
At $160kg, Jamaican Blue is one of the most expensive coffees available. And with just 40kg roasted by Jasper Coffee (267 Brunswick St; Stall 105, Prahran Market), it is also among the rarest. With its dark, chocolate flavour, try 100g of these rare beans.

Best feed
A low-key entrance makes it easy to miss the Tempura Hajime (60 Park St, South Melbourne). I spotted it on food blog www.tummyrumbles.com and visited what is sure to become cult with its 12 bar settings, fresh produce and Japanese aesthetic.
Run by Daisuke and Noriko Miyamoto, who started Yu-u, the basement Japanese restaurant on the corner of Flinders and Oliver lanes, the single-set, $66 menu starts with sashimi. Following were 12 courses of perfect tempura. The meal is punctuated by green salad and donburi – mixed tempura vegetables on rice – and finished with a yoghurt panna cotta. Book.

Read Ed Charles at www.tomatom.com

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