ED CHARLES dishes up the latest on Melbourne’s food, wine and bars
KITCHEN CRACKDOWN
Nobody at Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar (66 Bourke St, city) wants to comment on the impounding of its meat slicer or the future of its kitchen table. Health chiefs at the City of Melbourne are denying any restaurant crackdown, but restaurateurs are complaining about draconian enforcement. Appeals are pending, but the days of eating at the table in the iconic Pellegrini’s kitchen could be numbered.
UNCOMMONLY GOOD
Open from 10am to late, Wednesday to Sunday, the Commoner (122 Johnston St, Fitzroy) draws inspiration from two of London’s best restaurants: Moro, where chef Matt Donnelley cut his teeth, and Alastair Little, where owner Jo Corrigan worked. Produce driven, the restaurant brings together a mix of traditional English and Muslim-Mediterranean food and offers excellent value. The pan-fried semolina gnocchi with confit tomatoes, olives and parmesan is a highlight.
GIN DROUGHT OVER
So far fans of the distinctive Hendrick’s Gin have relied on the intermittent duty-free imports of enterprising bar owners. The good news is that it is now officially imported. Three unopened bottles sat behind Gerald’s Bar (386 Rathdowne St, Carlton North). Hendrick’s is made in small batches and instilled with 13 botanicals; the most obvious flavours being rose petals and cucumber.
VOTE VUE
Most restaurant websites aren’t overdone with music and animations. Now Vue de Monde’s has been recognised for its restraint and superior design, nominated for an international Webby Award. Vote at www.webbyawards.com
Best feed
ROCKPOOL, Crown Casino
Try the $15 burger at the bar of Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar and Grill, Crown Casino, and you can get his high-end dining on the cheap. What stood out was, straight from the aquarium, four live scallop ceviche for $26, served on their shells and topped with a salsa. Burgers aren’t served in the restaurant, but at $20 the spicy steak tartare and chips might do the trick.
Read Ed Charles at www.tomatom.com