The occasion to celebrate Viognier with wine brand Yalumba.
There we were in Melbourne’s most hyped new restaurant, Longrain, when I snapped this pic. It was a fitting venue for such a chic grape, the wine that Brett Easton Ellis drinks in his latest work, Lunar Park. If you believe this book Easton Ellis’ work – even the compellingly violent American Psycho – is about fashion. So Viognier must be near its peak in the US. Australia will probably be a few years away yet.
But still it’s up there with rosé as the wine writers’ (and buyers’) darling. But that’s another story.
In contrast, it’s been a few years since chardonnay has been fashionable. Sure, I’ll argue that good Chablis is as fashionable as money (and you’ll need a bit to buy it). But the Chateau Retriever new world variety has yet to recover from its dehydrated doggy reputation.
Don’t believe me? Then perhaps you’ll take notice of the writers of the TV satire Footballers’ Wives. If you’ve been holed up with white supremacists, all you need know is that one of the “babes” is called Chardonnay. Not cutting edge enough for you? Then perhaps Kath & Kim’s Chardonnay – with the silent “h” – may persuade you.
It is the grape of satire, lampooning itself with its oakiness.
Until now.
This all started with a bottle of Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2004 from the Adelaide Hills, costing $38. I was astonished it’s amazing grapefruit aromas that made this a stunning swallow (I wasn’t going to spit this one). At the time I commented on Vinosense about it being pricey and Jathan made the sports car connection.
Being a bloke it sometimes takes time for things to sink in after comparison. First the Stonier KBS Vineyard chardonnay 2002 at about $50. It’s one of those oh so Aussie buttery peachy chardonnays, perhaps for winter but not a summer’s day.
The Prunier Bourgogne Blanc 2003 costs $30. The Prince Winestore imports it. To me this is a wine that is overprices and simply aimed at the ignorant who want the snob value of a French white. For Christ’s sake, we are talking about a $30 table wine here.
Personally I’d pay the extra $15 for a flinty Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montee de Tonnerre’ 2004. There again, I could equally spend $15 less and do better still with the Dan Murphy excellent home brand $14.99 Aussie Clos Pierre Chardonnay 2005 from the Yarra Yalley – and it’s by the same bloke who made the Chablis 1er Cru.
But to compare grapefruit and white peaches, my original point. I reckon the Shaw & Smith is great value for it’s unique grapefruit bouquet.
Disclosure: I was sent two complimentary bottles of the Shaw & Smith.
Food Fascist:
1. Don’t ice your white wine to death, unless it is so appalling that you don’t want to taste it.
2. Avoid buying white wine from the fridge of mas market bottle shops. It’s a great way for the retailer to shift crap stock.
3. Buy a bottle with a Stelvin – screw top – as they don’t “cork” (Duh!). They taste sharper and fresher than wines stoppered with cork. I had three corked bottles in three weeks.
4. You’ll know it is corked if it smells and tastes horrible – like wet cardboard. By law the retailer has to exchange the bottle.
5. Above all, expensive does not equal best.
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